How to Level the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Axis on Your Bow Sight

I’ve been bowhunting for a long time, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s this: a properly leveled bow sight can mean the difference between a clean kill and a missed opportunity.

Whether you’re using a single-pin or multi-pin sight, getting the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd axis perfectly dialed in is essential, especially for those steep uphill and downhill shots where accuracy matters most.

In this no-nonsense, step-by-step guide, I’ll show you exactly how to level your bow sight like a pro. If my years in Special Forces taught me anything, it’s that an improperly set-up weapon is as good as useless. The same applies to your bow – if your sight isn’t leveled correctly, everything else you do to dial it in is a waste of time.

A lot of bowhunters, especially beginners, overlook this critical step. But by the time we’re done here, your sight will be true, and your arrows will fly exactly where they should.

➡️ ✅ Important Note: Not all bow sights allow for leveling the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd axes. Many entry-level sights only allow for 2-axis adjustments (or none at all), which can limit your accuracy on steep angles. If your sight doesn’t offer at least 2 and 3-axis adjustability, it might be time to consider upgrading. A properly leveled 3-axis sight can make all the difference.

Why Bow Sight Leveling Matters

Leveling your sight isn’t just a techy chore; it’s critical for accuracy. Each “axis” of your sight corresponds to a different direction that your sight can tilt or rotate. If any of these axes are off, your bow might shoot left or right of the target, especially at longer distances or steep angles.

I’ve seen bowhunters miss by almost a foot at 50 yards on a steep shot because their third axis wasn’t adjusted. Leveling all three axes of your sight ensures your sight’s built-in bubble level actually means something and that your pins stay true to your target.

In short: A level sight = consistent accuracy. An unlevel sight = unpredictable misses (usually left or right). Let’s break down what each axis is and why you should care. Learn more about why you need a level bow sight here.

Understanding the Three Axes of a Bow Sight

Before we get into the how-to, let’s quickly cover what each axis controls on your bow sight:

• First Axis (Yaw Axis): This axis runs left-to-right, parallel to the ground (imagine an invisible line through your sight left-to-right). Adjusting the first axis tilts your sight housing forward or backward (like tipping a bucket). It ensures the sight’s vertical post or slider is truly vertical.
  • If the first axis is off, your sight’s elevation adjustments might drift left/right as you move your sight up and down.
  • Many sights come with this axis preset from the factory, especially multi-pin hunting sights. On single-pin slider sights, you often can (and should) adjust the first axis so the sight housing face is perfectly vertical (parallel to your bowstring).
• Second Axis (Tilt/Pitch Axis): The second axis runs through the center of your sight front-to-back (imagine a rod pointing at your eye through the sight).
  • Adjusting the second axis tilts the sight left or right (like the hands of a clock rotating around the face). This controls whether your sight’s bubble level reads true when the bow is upright.
  • Why it matters: If the second axis isn’t level, you’ll unknowingly cant (tilt) your bow to center the bubble, causing your pins to slant diagonally.
  • At close range, you might not notice, but at longer ranges, your arrows will impact left or right of center. This is the most important axis for most shooting; if it’s off, your shots will drift as distance increases.
• Third Axis (Roll Axis): The third axis runs top-to-bottom through the sight, like a door hinge that lets the sight pivot toward or away from you.
  • This comes into play for uphill or downhill shots. When you tilt your bow up or down, an unlevel third axis will make the bubble slide to one side even if your bow is actually vertical. That tricks you into tilting the bow, resulting in a left or right miss on steep angles.
  • On flat ground, the third axis won’t affect aim if the second axis is level, but on a tree stand or mountain slope, it absolutely matters.
  • In fact, at steep 45° angles and longer distances (20+ yards), a mis-set third axis can cause significant horizontal error, in some cases nearly a foot off at 50 yards!

Understanding these axes, you can see why leveling all three is essential for hitting where you aim, whether you’re in a tree stand or out west stalking elk in rugged terrain. Now, let’s get into the tools and steps to get it done.

Tools You’ll Need for Leveling Your Bow Sight

To level your sight properly, having the right tools makes the job much easier. Here are my recommended tools (I use these in my own shop and in the field):

• Bow Vise: A bow vise securely holds your bow in place. This lets you work hands-free and keeps the bow perfectly still as you level.
  • It’s not absolutely required, but it’s extremely helpful for precision. (You can improvise by propping or having a friend hold the bow, but a vise is best for a one-person job.)
  • I recommend the Sierra Archery Bow Vise. It’s a great budget option for your home workshop.
• Bubble Levels: You’ll need a couple of small bubble levels. Ideally, get one level that you can attach to your bow (on the riser or string) and another to place on the sight.
  • Archery shops sell axis leveling kits with two levels: one that clips onto the bow’s string or riser, and one that sits on the sight.
  • Even a basic hardware-store torpedo level (6–8 inch) and a small line level can work. The key is having a way to know when your bow is perfectly vertical and when your sight is level.
  • I highly recommend the Hamskea GenPro2 3rd Axis level. After buying a bunch of cheap levels, I learned my lesson and finally bought it. It is worth it if you want to be able to attach it to your bow sight easily (and you do).
  • You will need more than 1, but I also recommend getting the SPG Level Kit for making your bow string plumb and using the Hamskea on your bow sight (as seen in the attached pictures).
• Allen Wrenches / Screwdriver: Most sights have small set screws or bolts for second and third axis adjustments. Have the appropriate Allen keys or screwdriver for your sight’s adjustments. I use the Pine Ridge Allen set and it’s always in my pack when I hunt.
• Axis Leveling Tool (Optional): For ultimate precision, consider a specialized tool like the Hamskea Third Axis Level. It attaches to your sight and has its own bubble, helping you set all three axes (it even simulates full draw torque).
  • It’s an investment, but if you love to tinker or want pro-level accuracy, it’s worth it.
  • I highly recommend the Hamskea GenPro2 3rd Axis level. After buying a bunch of cheap levels, I learned my lesson and finally bought it. It is worth it. You will need more than 1, but I also recommend getting the SPG Level Kit for making your bow string plumb and using the Hamskea on your bow sight (as seen in the attached pictures).
• Plumb Line (for field method): This can be as simple as a piece of string with a weight (a bolt or even a rock) tied to one end.
  • A plumb line gives you a true vertical reference (useful for second and third axis checks if you’re outside without a vise).

Step-by-Step: How to Level the First Axis

The first axis is usually set at the factory, but it’s wise to check it, especially on single-pin slider sights.

Here’s how I level the first axis:

1. Mount the Bow & Level It Vertically: Place your bow in a vise (or have a helper hold it steady). Attach a level to the bow’s riser or string and adjust the bow until it’s perfectly vertical (the bubble centered). This ensures the bow itself isn’t leaning at all. Lock the bow in position.

2. Level the Sight Housing (First Axis Adjustment): Most multi-pin sights don’t have a separate first axis adjustment, but single-pin movable sights often do. If your sight has a first-axis adjustment:

• Locate the first axis adjustment – it might be a screw or knob that lets the sight housing rotate forward or back (bottom-over-top rotation).
• Place a small level on top of the sight housing (make sure it sits flat and is parallel to the sight’s horizontal bar).
• Adjust the sight housing tilt until the level on the sight reads perfectly level (bubble centered). For example, on a scope-style sight with a threaded rod, you’d rotate the housing toward or away from you until its face is parallel to the bowstring (straight up-and-down).
• Tighten the first axis screws once the bubble is centered.

If your sight lacks a first-axis adjustment (common on a lot of bow sights), usually it’s already squared up. Just double-check that the sight’s vertical post appears parallel to your string. If it’s way off, you might need to shim the sight or your bow’s mounting block, but that’s rare for the first axis.

3. Verify: Re-check that the bow is still vertical and confirm the bubble on the sight housing (the one you adjusted) is still centered. Now your first axis is set – the sight is not leaning forward or back.

Tip: First axis issues mostly affect single-pin sights with vertical travel. If this axis isn’t correct, your sight’s elevation travel won’t be straight up-down. For multi-pin sights, the first axis is typically fixed by design, so you often won’t need to fuss with it.

Step-by-Step: How to Level the Second Axis

Leveling the second axis means making sure the sight’s built-in bubble level is accurate when the bow is held straight up (perfectly level). This ensures you’re not unconsciously tilting your bow to get the bubble centered.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Set Bow Vertical Again: Your bow should still be clamped vertically from the first axis step. Double-check the bow’s level on the riser or string, and keep that bow plumb (upright).

2. Level the Sight Bar/Pins: Many sights have a vertical sight bar (the part that attaches to the bow) or a vertical pin track. Attach your small level perpendicular to the sight bar (so it’s aligned vertically along the bar).

If the bow is vertical, the sight bar should also read vertical. If it doesn’t, make sure nothing moved in your setup. (This step basically verifies that your bow and sight are both straight up and down.)

3. Adjust the Second Axis: Now look at your sight’s bubble level (usually mounted in the sight housing at the bottom). If your bow and sight bar are perfectly vertical, that bubble should be centered. If it isn’t:

• Find the 2nd axis adjustment screws on your sight. These typically let you tilt the sight housing left or right independently of the mount.
• Loosen the screws slightly and rotate the sight housing left or right until the sight’s bubble level is perfectly centered.
• Tighten the screws carefully without shifting the level (sometimes easier said than done).

On some hunting sights that don’t have a second-axis adjustment, you can achieve the same effect by shimming the sight. For example, placing a thin piece of aluminum can or washer under one side of the sight mount where it attaches to the bow can tilt the whole sight just enough to level the bubble.

4. Double-Check Everything: Make sure the bow is still vertical and that the sight’s bubble stays centered. Your second axis is now level. This means when you hold your bow so that bubble is centered, your bow is truly vertical, with no unwanted cant.

Why is this so important? If the second axis is off, you might think your bow is level (because you centered the bubble), but the bow could actually be tilted. This leads to the same effect as canting your bow – arrows hitting left or right, especially as you shoot farther out. With a correct second axis, your pins will line up in a straight vertical line, and your left-right impact will stay true as distance increases.

Step-by-Step: How to Level the Third Axis (Shop Method)

The third axis is the trickiest, but crucial for uphill/downhill shots. Leveling the third axis means adjusting the sight so that when you tilt the bow up or down, the bubble level remains true.

Here’s the method I use in my workshop:

1. Second Axis First: Make sure you’ve done the second axis before this! The third axis adjustment won’t be correct if the second axis is off.

2. Simulate an Uphill/Downhill Shot: With your bow still in the vise, tilt the bow forward about 45° as if aiming downhill. (You can also tilt upward to simulate uphill – ultimately, you should check both.)

As you tilt, keep the bow’s riser level left-to-right. An easy way is to watch the level on your riser or string: as you tilt the bow forward, keep that riser level’s bubble centered. This ensures you’re only tilting forward, not canting sideways.

3. Watch the Sight’s Bubble: As the bow is angled, look at your sight’s built-in bubble. Ideally, it should remain centered while the bow is tilted. If the bubble runs off to one side, your third axis is not correct. For example, you tilt the bow down, and suddenly the bubble drifts right. This means your sight is tipping like a door, out of alignment.

4. Adjust the Third Axis: Most high-end sights have a third axis adjustment (often a screw near the sight housing that lets it pivot in/out).

• Loosen the third axis adjustment screws.
• Pivot the sight toward or away from you (the sight housing will hinge up or down relative to the mount) until the bubble is centered again while the bow is still tilted.
• This often takes a few tries: adjust a bit, re-center the bow’s riser level, check the sight bubble, and repeat until the sight’s bubble stays centered through the entire tilt.

5. Lock It Down: Once the bubble stays centered for both level and angled positions, tighten the third axis screws firmly.

6. Test Both Angles: Check on a steep uphill angle as well, tilt the bow upward (45° toward the ceiling), and ensure the bubble stays centered. If not, tweak the third axis until it behaves at both uphill and downhill angles.

Your third axis is now leveled. This means whether you take a shot from a tree stand down at a deer or uphill at a mountain goat, your sight’s bubble will give you a true reading. You won’t be subconsciously tilting the bow and causing a miss to the left or right because of a lying bubble.

Tip: In my experience, it’s good to verify the third axis at full draw if possible. Drawing the bow can introduce slight torque in the riser that might affect the level. If you have a helper, you can draw your bow (with an arrow safely!) and have them check if the bubble stays centered when you bend at the waist for an uphill/downhill aim. This is a “next level” check, but it can fine-tune your third axis even more.

Field-Expedient Method: Leveling the Third Axis Without a Vise or Kit

What if you’re already out in the woods or don’t have a fancy vise and level kit? Don’t worry, you can still adjust (or at least check) your third axis with some DIY methods. Here are a couple of field-expedient methods I recommend:

• Use a Plumb Line and a Steep Hill: Find a spot where you can safely draw your bow at an angle (for example, stand at the base of a hill and pick a small target uphill, or vice versa). Hang a plumb line (a piece of string with a weight) from a tree branch or some high point so it hangs straight down.
  • You can also aim your bow down at the base of a doorway where the vertical part of the frame is level (check to confirm) as an alternative method. I’ve done this at our hunting camp when I didn’t have anything else on hand (after dropping my bow).
• Nock an arrow (for reference) or use the vertical edge of your sight housing/pins. Now draw your bow (carefully! Make sure it’s safe to aim). Line up your sight’s vertical pins with the plumb line while aiming at a steep angle.
• Next: Check your bubble
  • If the bubble is off to one side when your pins are aligned with the plumb line, your third axis needs adjustment.
  • Carefully let down, then use your Allen wrench to tweak the third axis screw on your sight a little in the needed direction (e.g., if bubble drifts right, tilt sight accordingly).
  • Repeat the draw and aim, aligning with the plumb line, until the bubble stays centered when your pins align vertically.

This method basically uses gravity (the plumb line) as your level reference instead of a vise. It’s surprisingly effective for both multi-pin sights (use the pin stack as the vertical reference) and single-pin sights (use the sight housing edge or even your arrow as a reference).

“Shooting in” the Third Axis

This is a trial-and-error approach. If you suspect your third axis is off and you have room to shoot:

• 1. On flat ground, shoot a group at a distant target (say 40-50 yards) and adjust your sight so you’re hitting center.
• 2. Next, find a steep downhill shot to the target (from a hill or treestand) at the same horizontal distance. Shoot a group. If those arrows hit to the left or right of center (consistently), that’s a sign of third-axis error.
• 3. Adjust the third axis on your sight a small amount in the opposite direction of your miss. (E.g., if downhill shots hit right, your bubble was lying and you were canting right – so adjust the sight accordingly to bring the bubble to center).
• 4. Repeat with an uphill shot if possible, or keep fine-tuning until your uphill/downhill hits line up with your flat ground hits.

This method takes some ammo and is best done with broadhead-tipped arrows only if you’re tuning for hunting (to replicate actual hunting shots). It’s basically a real-world confirmation that your third axis is correct by seeing actual impact points.

Note: Field methods require caution. Always ensure you have a safe backstop and you’re not drawing or shooting at extreme angles without checking your surroundings. If in doubt, wait to adjust your sight at home with proper tools. But it’s good to know you can do this in a pinch with just some string and patience.

What If Your Sight Doesn’t Have Axis Adjustments?

Some bow sights, especially entry-level or fixed models, don’t offer 1st, 2nd, or 3rd axis adjustments. That doesn’t mean you’re out of luck. Here’s what I recommend:

• 1st Axis (Mounting Bar Tilt)
  • ➤ If your sight arm isn’t square to the riser, you might need to shim the bracket slightly using thin washers or spacers behind the mounting screws.
  • ➤ Make sure your sight bar is level with the bowstring using a string level and bubble level combo.
• 2nd Axis (Scope Tilt Left to Right)
  • ➤ If there’s no built-in adjustment, check if the sight ring can be loosened and rotated.
  • ➤ Some sights allow small tweaks by loosening the scope housing screws and adjusting by hand. If not, you may be stuck with what the factory set.
• 3rd Axis (Tilt Toward or Away From You)
  • ➤ If your sight doesn’t adjust here, your best option is to move the scope closer to the riser.
  • ➤ A shorter extension reduces 3rd axis error at steep angles and can keep your shots from missing left or right when shooting uphill or downhill.

Bottom line: If you can’t level your sight, you’re introducing error, especially at steep angles. Either get the most out of your current setup or consider upgrading to a sight with full axis control if you’re serious about accuracy in all terrain.

Final Tips and Takeaways

• Leveling Applies to All Sights: Whether you shoot a single-pin slider or a fixed multi-pin sight, the principles of leveling are the same.
  • Single-pin sights often have more axis adjustments (since they’re made for precision at multiple distances), whereas multi-pin sights might only have 2nd and maybe 3rd axis adjustments. In either case, take the time to level what you can.
  • Even if your sight doesn’t advertise a third-axis adjustment, you can often shim or slightly adjust how it mounts to get it close.
• Re-check After Changes: Whenever you change something on your bow (new sight, new rest, different arrows, etc.), it’s wise to re-check your sight leveling.
  • Even small bumps while hiking can occasionally throw a level off. I make it a habit to verify my second and third axes at the start of each season and even in-season if my bow takes a hard hit.
• Steep Shots = Biggest Test: Remember, the whole reason we fuss with the third axis is for those steep shots.
  • Practice shooting from a treestand or on a hillside before you hunt. That’s the best way to build confidence that your sight is truly dialed in.
  • If you find your groups consistently off to one side on angled shots, revisit your third-axis adjustment.
• Accuracy and Confidence: A level sight gives you confidence. You can trust that when your bubble is centered and your pin is on the spot, the arrow will land where it should (barring wind or other factors).
  • My brother completely transformed his long-range groups just by fixing a canted sight. It’s worth the effort.

In conclusion, leveling the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd axes on your bow sight might seem technical, but it’s a straightforward process you can do at home with the right tools, or even in the field with a bit of ingenuity. I promise, the first time you take a steep uphill shot at a nice buck and see that arrow hit true, you’ll be glad you took the time to get your sight axes leveled.