Saddle hunting didn’t start as some trend I wanted to jump on. I got into it because I was tired of the limits of traditional stands. I’d used climbing stands and lock-ons for years, but they just didn’t let me react to hot sign, get tight to bedding, or hunt the kind of gnarly setups that bucks often use for safety.
I needed something more mobile. More flexible. Something that let me be in the right tree, even if it wasn’t a perfect one.
That’s where saddle hunting came in.
Four years later, I’ve learned a ton. I’ve tested multiple saddles, platforms, sticks, ropes, and accessories. I’ve messed things up. I’ve missed out on deer I should have had. And I’ve fine-tuned my system to the point where I now trust it completely. But it wasn’t always that way.
This post is about that journey. If you’re a beginner thinking about getting into saddle hunting, or even if you’ve tried it but haven’t quite figured it out, this is what I’ve learned the hard way.
Why I Switched to Saddle Hunting
The big reason was mobility. With a climbing stand, you’re limited to clean, straight trees. With hang-ons, you need to carry sticks, straps, and sometimes a buddy to help hang it. I wanted the freedom to scout fresh sign, adjust on the fly, and hunt areas deep in the woods where big bucks like to bed.
Saddle hunting let me become a more mobile hunter. I could hike in a mile or more, find the best tree close to the freshest sign, and get set up without needing the perfect setup or prepping a tree days in advance. It gave me options and in pressured hill country, options are everything.
I also wanted to stop tearing up trees, especially on public land. The saddle system allowed me to minimize my impact and still get into trees that no climber or hang-on would touch.
READ: Best Saddle Hunting Packs for Mobile Bow Hunters

My Saddle Gear Evolution: Year-by-Year Breakdown
Best Cold Weather Jacket: I’ve tested more cold weather bow hunting jackets than I can count, but there is one that beat all the others during my 3-hour heat retention test. See my 7-Jacket test here.
Year 1 – Tethered Starter Setup
I started with the Tethered Phantom saddle, Predator platform, and Skeletor climbing sticks. For ropes, I ran their standard lineman’s rope and tether system, which I still use to this day, though this will likely be my last season on them (due to wear and tear).
The Skeletor sticks were a home run. They’re light, strong, easy to pack, the step spacing is comfortable, and they hang easy and tough in the tree. I used them for three full seasons, and they never failed me. I did swap the Amsteel ropes out after three years due to wear and I recommend every hunter inspect and retire rope systems regularly. Even Dyneema has a service life.
The Phantom saddle was a good saddle. No complaints. It just wasn’t great and I wanted to try something else. The Predator platform continually kicked out on me, but looking back, it might have been more about me than the platform (first year learning curve).

Year 2 – Cruzr Upgrade
Curious about comfort, I switched to the Cruzr XC saddle and Mini Seeker platform. The XC (which stands for Expansion Chamber) was easily the most comfortable saddle I had tried at the time. It allowed better back support and weight distribution for long sits. It is a a great saddle
The Mini Seeker platform had a forward-leaning lip designed for guys who like to lean. I thought I would love it. And while it did feel secure, I found the lean angle excessive at times, especially when I wanted to sit back more than lean forward. Still, it was a step up from the Predator.

Year 3 & 4 – Latitude Maverick + Profile Platform
Last season I switched to the Latitude Outdoors Maverick saddle and the Profile platform. This combo was a game changer. Light. Streamlined. Rugged. The Profile platform is one of the most solid-feeling options I’ve used, and the Maverick strikes the right balance between comfort and minimalism.
This year I’m testing the Latitude Core SS carbon climbing sticks. Ultralight, compact, and smooth to deploy. I still think the Skeletors are top-tier for their price, but I wanted to evaluate something new and see if the carbon setup saves weight without compromising security.
Rope Systems, Ascenders, and Safety
Coming from a Special Forces background, I’ve spent a good portion of my life hanging off ropes. That made the transition easier for me, but for new hunters, rope safety is the most critical part of saddle hunting.
Here’s what I run:
- 11mm static ropes (from Tethrd): Easier to grip, more forgiving than 8mm or 9mm cords. In cold weather or under stress, that grip makes all the difference.
- Two Ropeman I Ascenders: One for my lineman’s rope and one for my tether. These allow smooth movement and adjustment, no fighting Prusik knots that bind or slip (but I do run a backup on my tether).
- Tether height: I anchor mine at forehead height. Higher tethers limit movement; lower ones reduce comfort. Forehead is the sweet spot for mobility and stability.
- Inspections: Every season I check my ropes, carabiners, and all stitching. Any wear, fraying, or signs of impact and it’s getting replaced.
If your system catches you in a significant fall, replace it. Rope fibers and stitching don’t always show visible damage, but the structural integrity may be compromised.
Learning the Shot: Angles, Positioning, and Practice
This is where saddle hunting gets real. It’s also where most hunters mess up.
When you’re in a saddle, your body position is everything. You’re not standing square on a platform. You’re angled, twisted, sometimes leaning into the tree or away from it. That affects your draw cycle, your anchor, and your shot execution.
Lessons learned:
- Strong side shot (right-handed shooter): between 9 and 12 o’clock. Make sure your target area falls in that arc.
- Weak side shots are harder. They require either swinging around the tree or practicing hard-angle shooting. I’ve muffed these.
- Shooting platform control: Know where your feet go. Know how to settle before drawing.
- Tether length matters: Shorter tethers bind you. Too long and you drift. Forehead height gives a good middle ground.
I’ve had hunts where I couldn’t get a clean draw on a buck because I was twisted around the tree like a pretzel. If I had been in a hang-on stand, I might’ve had a clean shot. That’s the tradeoff.
Pants, Knee Pads, and Climbing Gaiters
I hate strap-on knee pads. They shift. They squeak. They dig in. That’s why I like to run pants that have them integrated or accept knee pad inserts:
For a climbing stick aider, I use:
- Tubular nylon climbing aider from Custom Gear Modifications
No platform mods for me. I tested Amsteel platform attachments but went back to standard hardware, better bite, better seat, safer setup.
Pouches, Straps, and Bow Hangers
After years of trial and error, here’s what I run in the tree:
- Saddle pouches: Testing the new large Tethered zippered pouches. Big enough to stay organized. For the last three years I used mag dump pouches I got on Amazon. They work great on a budget.
- Gear strap: Latitude Outdoors strap. Strong, adjustable, lets me hang my pack and bow exactly where I need them.
- Bow hanger: Latitude Outdoors bow hanger (testing Tethered’s folding version this year).
- Grunt call: I keep this clipped right in front of my face on the strap so I can lean into the tree and call without being seen.
- Camera setup: Painted Arrow magnetic mount with Insta360 Ace Pro 2 action cam.
- Optics: My compact Vortex binoculars for most hunts (with my Rick Young minimalist harness), but testing the Maven M1 monocular as an even more minimalist alternative.
Saddle Hunting Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Access almost any tree
- Pack in light, fast, and quiet
- Great use of natural cover
- Minimal tree impact (good for public)
Cons:
- Longer setup/teardown than climber
- Shot angles can be awkward (and sometimes very uncomfortable)
- Not ideal for all body types or fitness levels
- Requires rope skills, practice, and patience (getting set up is not a fast process)
If you’re not comfortable managing ropes, you need to learn that on the ground before climbing. Period.
Final Thoughts: Is It Worth It?
If you’re a mobile bowhunter, especially in pressured terrain, yes, saddle hunting is absolutely worth it.
But it’s not for everyone. You need to develop your system. You need to practice. You need to learn how to shoot from it, pack it, and stay still in it. If you treat it like a shortcut, you’ll hate it. If you build it into a system, it’ll open up your entire hunting strategy.
For me, it’s the right tool for the job. And after four years, I’m not going back.
Want to see exactly what I’m carrying this season? Check out my Personal Bowhunting Gear List for 2026