The Everyday Arrow Weight Formula: A Fast Track to the Right Hunting Arrow

Picking the right hunting arrow weight shouldn’t feel like rocket science, but it often does. If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed by charts, forums, or endless math, you’re not alone.

Over the years, I’ve built hundreds of arrows for different bows, draw weights, and hunting scenarios. Some were light and fast. Some were heavy and slow. And through all of it, one thing became clear:

Most bowhunters just need a simple formula that gets them close, without wasting time.

That’s what this post is. It’s a practical shortcut based on real-world results that will help you build a hunting arrow that flies straight, hits hard, and gets the job done.

If you want to dive deeper into physics, tuning, and detailed calculations, I have guides you can check out later. But if you just want to know what arrow weight to shoot with your bow, this is your starting point.

For the full picture, start with the Performance-Driven Arrow Build Series

Why Use This Formula (Instead of Guessing)?

• Save time: Skip endless charts, forums, and bad advice.
• Stay safe: Stay inside proven GPP ranges that protect your bow.
• Hunt smarter: Get the perfect balance of speed, penetration, and accuracy without overbuilding or underbuilding your arrow.

The Everyday Formula fast-tracks you to a field-ready arrow — without the guesswork.

This isn’t just raw math — this calculator adjusts for your bow’s speed, draw length, and real-world hunting distances to give you a proven arrow weight range tuned for penetration, accuracy, and Your Bow’s Power Curve.

👇 Get Your Hunting Arrow Weight Instantly — Plug in Your Numbers Below:

How the Everyday Arrow Build Calculator Works

Want to know how these numbers are calculated? Here’s the simple breakdown:

Step 1: Start with Your Draw Weight

Use your draw weight to get a base arrow weight in grains. Multiply it by the Grains Per Pound (GPP) of draw weight below:

📌 Note for High Draw Weights: If you’re shooting a 75–80 lb bow, start at 7.0 GPP. These setups are capable of pushing 600–650-grain arrows comfortably, especially with longer draw lengths. This is ideal for short-range elk hunting or maximum momentum arrow builds.

⚠️ If your draw weight falls between ranges (like 63 lbs), don’t try to average or split GPP values. Just use the GPP for your 5-lb bracket. The formula already accounts for realistic performance within that range.

This gets you in the safe zone for both speed and penetration.

*If you’re shooting under 55 lbs, stay under 475 grains unless you’re only taking close-range shots.

Step 2: Adjust Based on Your Setup

Now fine-tune your number by adding or subtracting based on your bow and your hunting style:

*If you regularly shoot past 40 yards, consider shaving 40–50 grains instead of just 25.

How We Picked These GPP Ranges — And What They’re Based On

One of the biggest questions we get is: “Why did you choose these specific grains-per-pound (GPP) values in the Everyday Arrow Weight Formula?” That’s fair. If you’re trusting a formula to guide your arrow build, you deserve to know what’s behind it.

The answer lies in understanding your bow’s power curve.

What Is a Bow’s Power Curve?

The power curve is a way of showing how much energy your bow can deliver to an arrow based on three main factors:

• Draw weight
• Draw length
• Bow efficiency (IBO speed)

Most modern compound bows advertise their IBO speed based on a very specific setup:

• 70 lbs draw weight
• 30-inch draw length
• 350-grain arrow

That’s the maximum efficiency zone for most bows. But here’s the problem: most everyday bowhunters aren’t shooting that setup. A 27″ draw length or a 60 lb draw weight will put you significantly lower on the power curve, meaning you can’t push super-heavy arrows at high speeds.

That’s why we had to build a formula that reflects real-world energy output, not just what looks good on paper.

The Real-World GPP Ranges We Recommend

We chose GPP values that align with where most hunters fall and what their bows can realistically push well. These are optimized for:

• 45–80 lb draw weights
• 23–32″ draw lengths
• Bows in the 300–350 IBO speed range

Here’s a look at how that translates:

These GPP values weren’t picked at random — they were mapped to maintain arrow speeds above 250 fps and momentum above 0.55 slugs for typical compound bows across draw lengths and draw weights. We ran hundreds of calculations using real-world bows in the 300–350 IBO class to find the GPP window where most hunters stay in the performance zone.

All numbers are based on chrono testing with mid-tier hunting bows and real draw lengths. These are not marketing estimates.

🔍 Performance Zone Benchmarks:

When your final arrow build is done, you want your bow to stay in this output range:

• 0.55–0.65 slugs of momentum for consistent penetration
• 250–280 fps speed for a flat, forgiving trajectory
• 65+ ft-lbs KE for reliable energy transfer

How the Everyday Formula Uses This

Our formula doesn’t just spit out a generic GPP. It scales your recommendation based on your actual draw weight and draw length. If you’re shooting 60 lbs at 27”, your bow simply can’t push an 8.0 GPP arrow fast enough to stay in the performance zone.

The formula adjusts, recommending something like 6.5 to 7.0 GPP, so you keep your trajectory usable while still maintaining enough momentum for clean penetration.

We’re trying to help you stay in the performance zone for real hunting situations, not just theorize what’s optimal.

Pros of the Everyday Formula

• Keeps arrows within speed/momentum range for ethical shots inside 30–35 yds
• Accounts for draw length and actual setup, not just peak IBO numbers
• Balances trajectory and penetration

Limitations to Be Aware Of

• If you’re shooting over 35 yards regularly, you may want to lean lower for flatter flight
• Heavy bone-breaking setups for elk or moose may need more than 8.0 GPP — that’s fine to override
• Super high IBO bows (340+ fps) can support heavier arrows and still maintain trajectory — tweak accordingly

This formula gives the right ballpark for 90% of hunters using today’s compound bows, especially in whitetail setups. It’s not gospel, but it’s battle-tested logic based on real bows, real builds, and real chrono data.

When in doubt, chrono your setup and make sure your arrow is flying true at your effective range. That’s what matters.

Example Walkthrough: Building an Arrow Step-by-Step

• 60 lb draw weight × 8 GPP = 480 grains
• Bow IBO: 335 fps → +25
• Draw Length: 26.5” → –25
• Shot Distance: Inside 30 yards → +50

Final Arrow Weight Target: ~530 grains

That’s your starting arrow build. And it’ll be closer than anything you’ll get from a forum or YouTube comment.

🧠 Why it works: The formula adjusts down slightly for the short draw length — but adds weight back for your bow’s IBO speed and short-range hunting. That’s why the final target (530 grains) is heavier than the 8.0 GPP baseline. It’s not random — it’s scaled to match real-world performance and hunting context.

What to Do After You Get Your Number

• Build a test arrow or two inside your Everyday Range.
• Paper tune your setup to check arrow flight.
• Broadhead tune for hunting accuracy.
• Adjust slightly if needed — but trust that you’re already close.

Once tuned, your arrow is ready to hunt. Simple, deadly, and field-proven.

Not Sure Where to Start?

Before you plug in numbers, think about your actual hunting situation:

• If you’re hunting inside 30 yards, momentum and penetration matter more than speed. You’ll want a heavier arrow.
• If you’re hunting 40+ yards, a flatter trajectory becomes more important. That means backing off the weight a bit.
• Hunting big-bodied animals (like elk or hogs)? Add more weight for bone-breaking power.
• Hunting in open fields or mountains? Go lighter so you can shoot flatter.

*This is why the formula adds or subtracts grains — it’s built around how far and what you’re hunting.

*Want to understand why these numbers work? Read my post: Does Arrow Weight Really Matter for Deer Hunting?

📊 Dialed in your numbers? But Have You Looked at Everything?

Your arrow weight, speed, and momentum are only the start.

To hunt effectively, you need a build that balances spine, FOC, and broadhead selection.

👉 Click Here to Get The Arrow Build Cheatsheet Now!

What This Formula Is (and Isn’t)

This isn’t a replacement for testing your arrow in the field. But it’s the best way I’ve found to:

• Avoid going too light and losing penetration
• Avoid going too heavy and shooting a rainbow
• Get an arrow that tunes well, flies true, and feels right out of your bow

It works across brands, broadhead styles, and bow types. Once you’ve got your number, you can plug it into my Arrow Calculator or use it to pick shafts and components that hit your goal.

👉 Try the Arrow Weight Calculator Here

Optional Tip: What About Let-Off?

Let-off doesn’t affect your arrow’s speed or kinetic energy, but it does impact how steady you can hold your bow at full draw. Higher let-off (85–90%) means you’re holding less weight, which can make it easier to steady heavier arrows.

It’s not part of this formula, but it’s something to think about if your aim wobbles with heavier arrows.

Need More Help?

If you’re still not sure how arrow weight affects your bow setup, start here:

• How to Choose the Right Arrow Weight for Bowhunting — A Beginner’s Guide
• Best Arrow Weight for Hunting — Advanced tuning and performance tips
• Do Your Arrows Match Your Bow’s Power Curve? – How to optimize arrows for your bow.

This formula sits right in the middle. It’s what I use when someone hands me their bow and says, “What arrow should I shoot?”

Now you have the answer.

Test it. Tweak it. Hunt with it.

The right arrow isn’t about chasing numbers — it’s about being ready when it counts. Build smart. Hunt hard. Trust your setup.